Maybe she's a juggalo.

Elon Musk doesn't look any different.

I've also wondered about whether to fully fill my tank or drive on a small amount so that I'm not using fuel to carry fuel. Do you know of any metrics on that?

I haven't made any calculations, and it's more a hunch, but considering you usually need to remove hundreds of KG in order to make an impact on how much fuel is being spent, 40-50L of gas (~40KG difference between full and empty maybe?) would have an marginal effect on how much fuel is spent to carry a full tank vs 10% filled tank.

Besides, with a smaller tank, you'll make more trips to tank it, and also have less choice to go to gas stations that are further away but have cheaper price. Then again it becomes a question of "Do I want more time or more money?", back to square one :)

Edit: Also, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the fuel pump use fuel itself as a coolant or something? Never investigated myself, but some car-knower once told me that running the tank on low always isn't good for the fuel pump, or something like that. If that's true, running with 10% of the fuel would mean more maintenance too, potentially removing any savings in the first place.

> Never investigated myself, but some car-knower once told me that running the tank on low always isn't good for the fuel pump, or something like that.

The main issue is that it risks pulling detritus from the very bottom of the fuel tank, usually a bigger issue in diesels and I suspect less of a problem these days.

Aah, I have a diesel car, maybe that was what he was alluding to! Car is from 2017 so not that old. Thanks :)

> doesn't the fuel pump use fuel itself as a coolant or something

I know very little about these things, but my understanding was always that any form of liquid pump uses the liquid itself as coolant to some extent.

Yeah, fair enough, I think what he mentioned though, wasn't just about fuel going through the pump being used as coolant, but some extra process that only happens when you're not running below say 10% or whatever, an extra cooling process that only runs when you're not low on fuel. Maybe I misunderstood him though and it's just about the liquid passing through.

I think the fuel passing through is the only method that could be used to cool, the volume of fuel required is presumably constant, regardless of how much fuel you have left, so the amount passing through the pump should be the same until you run out.

On a related note, my car has a fuel heater, to pre-heat the Diesel before it hits the engine, I assume this is typical in modern cars, but using the fuel as a coolant would presumably contribute positively to this desire for warmer fuel entering the cylinders.

you can probably work it out but you have to make a lot of assumptions :)

Ultimately how much is your time worth? in the example given drcongo's time is worth £1.28 an hour.

Unless you're driving a lorry with a 120L tank, it's negligible. We're talking like, 100 mL per 100km.

If I were able to see the flicker of mains supplied LED lighting (which I cannot), then I would be very tempted to install low-voltage DC LED lighting, which presumably does not flicker.

An AC/DC power converter works the same, either built into the bulb or in a separate unit. But yes, a separate power converter is almost certainly going to do a much better job of removing the 50/60Hz voltage drop. Not sure if it would be cheaper, given the economies of scale on AC bulb manufacture. Higher quality AC bulbs may come out ahead for flicker free lighting.

It only doesn't flicker if there's no power driving circuitry - eg just LEDs and a resistor.

Otherwise, if there is a power IC present, there is flicker, though fast enough for most humans to not perceive normally (you can still check it by waving your hand in front of the light and seeing the strobed afterimage.)

That's not strictly true. The very simplest of DC LED drivers flicker, such as the classic single-transistor battery saver circuit, but a slightly more complex DC LED driver circuit will not. One of the best ways to drive an LED is with a constant current source, which typically involves putting an inductor in series with the LED and switching the supply to that at a reasonably high frequency, which would mean the LED does not flicker at all.

If it's hooked directly to AC power, isn't there by definition a flicker? With a power IC, a poorly implemented power circuit will also visibly flicker. With high enough rate and the right power characteristics it should not be noticeable. Do you notice flicker in a quality phone or monitor screen?

Yes! And this after image is distracting.

For something that loops would you not want a circle?

Could be a disgruntled employee; it could be Rockstar destroying their own records; it could be a leaky gas pipe.

I went to a general auction in Croydon, UK in the 1990s with my parents. One of the lots was an old C5. It sold for £11. I still regret not pushing my parents to bid for it.

Why does it need to be different?

>the experience of using a Frame-style TV in an otherwise well-designed room is legitimately quite nice

Legitimately quite nice. Is there any higher praise than this?

It's really not a big issue: the pointer changes to a resize arrow when you're in the right place, so it's pretty clear when you've got it right.

Just tried with Lightroom - sometimes the pointer changes, sometimes it doesn't and stays as the normal arrow. Sometimes it allows resizing in height and width, other times only one of them.